Italy, that is the Colosseum, the Florence Cathedral, the Tower of Pisa. Due to its cultural wealth, Italy has the highest density of museums in the world. And despite a high level of industrialisation, Italy has also managed to preserve many natural treasures with an interesting fauna.
At the end of October 2024 I start a tour with my VW bus that takes me mainly through Italy. My main goal is to measure skulls of Apennine chamois in various museums and zoological collections of national parks for an anatomical study and to photograph living chamois in their habitats. As always, I also document other wild animals that cross my path along the route.
Saturday, October 26, 2024: Frejus tunnel – Genoa
Coming from Germany I enter Italy via Grenoble and the Frejus tunnel. My destination for the day is Genoa. The next day, a whale watching tour in the Tyrrhenian Sea is planned – www.golfoparadiso.it. – Nothing can lead you to Genoa better than „Crêuza de mä“, an album by Italian singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André, released in 1984, entirely sung in the Ligurian language.
After Turin, there is a strong thunderstorm. Jets of water spray from the cracks in the concrete slabs that secure the embankment. In the tunnels that lead through the Apennines, it drips as if a sprinkler system had been installed. At one point, another vehicle overtakes me and so much water splashes onto the windshield that I can no longer see anything. I wonder whether I should even drive to Genoa, because I suspect that a lot of the water here ends up down there.
But as soon as I am near the city, the storm stops and it turns into a beautiful evening. I then go to the „Villa Doria“ campsite, where I get a nice space all for myself, supposedly „under the largest sequoias in Genoa“. The giants give off a wonderful smell. The air is warm at 20° and very steamy, birds are singing. It is a very nice atmosphere. I set traps for shrews and mice, but ultimately don’t catch anything.
Sunday, October 27, 2024: Genoa – Turin
Bad news: Whale watching is cancelled due to rough seas.
I take it easy, have breakfast, listen to the birds and then finally drive back on the motorway to Turin, where I spend the night at the “Campeggio Grinto” campsite. The camp borders the “Parco delle Vallere”, which is known for its Eastern Cottontail Rabbits, an invasive species.
At the reception of the campsite I end up having a nice chat with a young woman who studied environmental sciences and knows the local fauna quite well. She gives me observation tips. I park the car and go through the back exit into the adjacent park, where I first spot North American Gray Squirrels – of course also an introduced species – and later, as it gets dark, the Cottontail Rabbits. Apparently the rabbits are easier to see in summer (during the day).
Monday, October 28, 2024: Turin
Before breakfast, I take a walk around the park. On a harvested corn field, I discover the largest density of Gray Squirrels to date (around 15 squirrels on a 100 m long strip). They are feeding on the corn kernels that are left behind after the harvest. I wonder what makes this species so superior to the European Squirrel. There are certainly several reasons. One could be that they also use food sources that are further away from protective trees.
After breakfast, I set off on foot to the Natural History Museum in Turin. It’s about a seven kilometers walk long the river Po. On the way, I see an incredible number of Gray Squirrels, certainly 100+. It is not surprising that our native squirrels no longer stand a chance. I also document a Brown Rat. There are also supposed to be Nutrias in the city area. I miss those.
The Natural History Museum is easy to find. My skulls of Abruzzo Chamois have already been prepared. They are 100 years old! But of the six skulls, only two are ultimately of any use to me. In beautiful autumn weather, I head back the way I came.
After dinner, I take another nighttime walk through the park. I see about 50 Cottontail Rabbits, a Red Fox, five Brown Rats and an Apodemus mouse.
After these observations, I wonder whether Turin could be the “capital of invasive species”. In two days here, I have actually seen more invasive species than native ones. Later Italian biologist Spartaco Gippoliti tells me that there are problems with introduced species throughout the Po valley.
Undoubtedly, the Gray Squirrels in particular help people to develop a connection with wild animals: I see many visitors taking photos of the squirrels, feeding them or drawing their grandchildren’s attention to the animals.
But the damage they cause is immense: Gray Squirrels reach much higher population densities than our squirrels. Accordingly, their impact on the habitat is much greater: They damage trees by stripping bark; they influence the regeneration of the forest; they compete with other seed-eaters, including birds; they occupy nesting holes; they are predators of other animals, including vertebrates and especially young birds. Perhaps the most understandable effect is that there are no more native squirrels where the gray ones predominate.
Tuesday, October 29, 2024: Turin – Orbetello Lagoon
I take it easy in the morning and set off late. I drive towards Genoa again. Along the route, it is noticeable that the rivers flow towards you for most of the time, which means that the watershed must be relatively close to Genoa and the coast. Maybe that is the reason why I was not washed away in Genoa. Next destination: Tuscany – Porcupine country
I arrive at the Orbetello Lagoon in the afternoon in beautiful weather. There are a few birds in the lagoon, most notably around 50 flamingos. However, there are no dry shore areas, which is why there are almost no waders to be seen. I do a first lap in a small forest to be prepared for the night. For security reasons I always do that in an unknown area before I set out again at night. At the beginning, the forest is still relatively boring with planted pine trees. As I continue along, cork oaks and other species appear. Some of the trees are even quite old. Looks promising.
After I have got my bearings, I cook something and then set off again in the dark. What I discover over the course of the night until around midnight is: a Nathusius’s Bat (I actually see bats several times in the thermal imaging device, but only once do I manage to record the call of a bat with my bat detector: the Nathusius’s Bat), a Brown Rat, a Wild Boar and a West European Hedgehog. Apart from the Brown Rat, I don’t see any other small rodents, nor owls. There are two domestic cats hanging around the camp, but they look more like beggars than hunters. No porcupine luck.
Wednesday, October 30, 2024: Orbetello – L’ Aquila
It’s a three-hour drive to L’ Aquila in the central Apennines. The campsite is simple: a meadow, trees, a river nearby, hot shower. Everything I need.
In the evening I take a walk on a walking path that runs along a river. The meadows look promising. I see something dog-like in my thermal scope. But the distance is too far, the grass too high to tell if it is a fox or a wolf. Nothing else in the meadow. Strange. Near a bridge I can take a look at the river. I see something mouse-like at the water, partly in the water. But from a great distance and I cannot tell if it is a water shrew or a water vole.
Thursday, October 31, 2024: Isola die Gran Sasso
I have an appointment in Isola die Gran Sasso at 8:30 a.m. I meet Carlo, who works for the Gran Sasso National Park and shows me two skulls in his office, which I can measure straight away. We then set off and drive an hour to a chamois museum, which is no longer open to visitors. Seven years ago, an earthquake struck here, destroying several buildings. The region has still not fully recovered from this natural disaster. We have to take quite a detour, partly because a road is still buried. On the way, we discover a wild cat in the ditch.
In the museum, I find some usable chamois skulls. Then we drive to an „Area Faunistica“ where five Apennine chamois are housed. After that, I invite Luca to lunch and then drive back to L‘ Aquila. On the way, I see a young man dressed all in black, with a mask and a machine gun. I struggle with myself and consider whether I should inform the police. A short time later I find out that it is Halloween …
Friday, November 1st, 2024: L‘ Aquila – Abruzzo National Park
I have breakfast at dusk and see a Eurasian Red Squirrel. I change my müsli spoon for my camera and take pictures. On my way further south I am amazed again. Part of the journey goes through extensively used agricultural landscapes that should actually be suitable for many species. But again I don’t see anything.
In the Abruzzo National Park, the first place I stop is at the old church in Gioia Vecchio, a well-known place for bear watchers, which I have also described in my book „Sie sind wieder da – Bär, Luchs und Wolf erleben“. I’ve been here several times, but today I hit the jackpot.
As always, there are already a few animal watchers standing at the parapet. A local says that a week ago wolves killed a cow. Remains of it are still lying around. A bear was seen just this morning. Now is not the right time. I plan to come back in the evening. A Red Deer I take with me right away in my camera. Just before I enter Pescasseroli, the main town of the national park, there is a wonderful Red Fox on the side of the road. Behind the village of Opi I move into the campsite „Il Vecchio Mulino“, a beautiful place that still has sun for a long time in the afternoon. After my accommodation is sorted, I drive back to Gioia Vecchio.
At first there are two dogs at the carcass, which is about 600 meters away, but they soon leave the scene. Just a little later two wolves appear and start gnawing on the old bones. Thanks to my good optics with an 800 millimeter lens, everything can be seen in great detail. It takes a while, then a female bear with her cub comes along. Wow, that’s what I call animal observer luck! The wolves leave at first, but one soon comes back, hoping for a second chance. He approaches, but gets too close to the young bear. The female bear intervenes and scares the wolf away. What a spectacle! Unfortunately, it is already too dark to take photos of the decisive moments, I get only decent pictures, when the animals are standing still. But I can see everything very clearly. It is dark shortly after 5 p.m. and I drive back to the campsite. It is nice to drive through the beautiful mountains with the feeling of having won a grand prize!
Saturday, November 2, 2024: Val di Rose
I get up at 4:30 a.m. Most of my things are already packed. I drive to Civitella Alfedena, park the car on the outskirts of the village and climb up through the Val di Rose in the light of my flashlight. Three other hikers are already on the way at this time. The weather is wonderful, a completely clear day, there is only fog down in the reservoir.
The first hour goes through beech forest. It has been heavily used over the centuries, which is still evident today. There are a few very old specimens at the upper tree line. In 1985, when I was here for the first time, I was already fascinated by these trees.
Below the first pass, I see the first Apennine Chamois. Apparently, the animals here are the ones in the park that are most habituated. Accordingly, I can get very close to the animals and take good portrait photos.
A strong male, who later turns out to be the boss in the area, has a very prominent eye on one side. A tumor has probably developed behind the eye.
The next natural spectacle takes place behind the pass. Four deer have gathered at a watering hole, wallowing in the mud, some of them behaving like horses, rolling over their backs and stretching their legs in the air. What a show!
Up on the ridge, 20 meters off the path, I make breakfast. A Francesca comes along and explains to me that you are not allowed to stay off the paths. I think to myself that if she tells me that on this occasion, then violations of the park rules must be punished fairly strictly. That’s good!
I descend around midday. The chamois actually would have priority, but because of the situation in Gioia Vecchio with the carcass, the bears and the wolves, I change my plans. You can’t miss an opportunity like that! I have to go there a second time. So I have lunch down at the campsite and then I’m back in Gioia in the late afternoon. Again, dogs are at the carcass first. Today there are three of them and they stay for quite a long time. Maybe that keeps the wild animals away. The bears and wolves are nowhere to be seen today. Well, bad luck is part of the business.
Sunday, November 3, 2024: Val di Rose
Today I get up at 4:00 a.m. I want to go up through the Val di Rose again and beyond. Again, everything goes like clockwork. This time I’m all alone. Again, the weather is great and when I get to the top of the pass, the chamois are already there, some of the same individuals, but also a new, very old female with very long, curved horns.
I devote myself to the animals for a while, then walk over the pass and 40 minutes further to the Refugio Forca resuni. The refuge is cordoned off. I sit down on the bench behind it, watch the birds, eat and then take a nap on a bench.
Later, an Italian beauty arrives at the hut and I chat to her for a while. She is a trained pharmacist, worked in the profession for ten years, but then started traveling the world and is now back home after several years. It is an interesting conversation about the world, family, children, partners – chamois. We hug goodbye. She marches down into the neighboring valley and I go back to the first pass and my chamois. I love travelling.
Monday, November 4, 2024: Pescasseroli
Skull measuring is planned again for today. Once more, the weather is beautiful and I drive to Pescasseroli, the administrative headquarters of the national park. I treat myself to a cappuccino with a jam croissant. I have to pass the time until 10 o’clock. Then the small local zoo opens, which also houses a natural history museum. There are no chamois skulls there, however. Of the three species of animals currently housed in the zoo, one is the porcupine. They are normally nocturnal, but once again I’m lucky and one of the animals is in front of its burrow. I manage to get some good photos, that I can use.
I then go through a side exit to the administration of the national park. The park never responded to my inquiries. I speak to three people and finally manage to spontaneously gain access to the zoological collection. And there are actually quite a few chamois skulls there that I can use. Bingo!
Tuesday, November 5, 2024: Abruzzo National Park – Monte Pollino
I set off at 4 a.m. in order to arrive at Monte Pollino, my next destination, in time. In time means that I want to look for another squirrel here in daylight, the Calabrian Black Squirrel, an endemic species that only occurs here in the south of Italy. For the first few kilometers south, I travel mainly on small country roads, which is much more interesting than on the highway. However, here too I don’t see much, just one Red Fox.
In the late morning I make a brake at Sapri, southeast of Naples. The place is known for a population of Finlayson’s Squirrels, another invasive species that originally comes from Southeast Asia. From what I have seen here the next two or three hours, I have developed an instruction to „Dolce Vita Mammal Watching“:
1. Stroll along the beach promenade.
2. Ask a street sweeper if he has seen any squirrels: “Ci sono scoiattoli qui?” If he says yes, ask him to show you the spot: “Dove? … grazie!“
3. Go to the cafe next door, order that espresso-based coffee drink that is traditionally prepared with steamed milk: “Cappuccino, per favore.” And sweet pastries – with the squirrels in view, preferably with nuts in it: “E quello lì.” (Use your index finger.) Keep an eye on the trees that the street sweeper showed you.
4. Enjoy your coffee and sweet pastries. The squirrel has longer rest periods, but be ready for it. The Finlayson’s Squirrel is an arboreal species (I never saw it on the ground). It is very quick and changes trees frequently, but stays in the area (at least the one I saw did). Therefore hiking boots are not necessary, flip-flops are sufficient.
5. When you have observed what you set out to do and all the pictures are in the box, treat yourself to another cappuccino as a reward. “Arrivederci!”
I’m back on track. Calabrian Black Squirrel is next. Coming from the north, I cross the Pollino massif on the motorway. Then it goes up to the „Santuario Santa Maria Delle Armi“. The further the route takes me up the mountain, the better it looks for suitable squirrel habitat. Shortly before the monastery, I stop and take a walk through a pine and oak forest – but ultimately without success. I park my bus directly below the Santuario and spend another starry night there with a view of the Ionian Sea and Tawny Owls as an acoustic backdrop. Unbeatable!
Wednesday, November 6, 2024: Santuario Santa Maria Delle Armi – Bari
I sleep relatively badly and only wake up when it is already dusk. A quick breakfast and I’m already rolling down the mountain in my bus. Both windows are open. I look and listen for the squirrel. I stop at places that seem good to me and walk a little way into the forest. I am successful at the second place: a Calabrian Black Squirrel is hopping on the ground. I immediately notice how big it is. It is said to be 35 percent heavier than the Eurasian Red Squirrel. And it is very black. The white underside contrasts very strikingly. I manage to get some initial shots. The squirrel climbs up a tree, where I lose sight of it. I wait, but it does not want to come back.
I drive on and look at other places. But my gut feeling tells me that I should return to the starting point. I do that and promptly see the squirrel again. This time it is carrying material in its mouth and is taking it to a nest. It is active there for a while and I can photograph it very well. It then sits down on a branch and begins to rest. I crouch down too and wait for an hour. But nothing more happens. I decide to go to other places and come back later. But then the squirrel is gone.
I set off for Bari. Billie Eilish’s “Birds of a Feather” accompanies me. At 19:30 the ferry departs across the Adriatic. I spent the days from November 7th to 12th on Mount Olympus / Greece to photograph Balkan Chamois. On the evening of the 12th I am back in Igoumentisa and take the ferry back to Italy, Ancona.
Wednesday, November 13th: Ancona – Lago Maggiore
The ferry arrives in Ancona at around 3 p.m. and I set off immediately. My destination is Porto Valtravaglia on Lake Maggiore, which I reach at around 9 p.m. And here, again, my target is an invasive species: the Pallas‘ Squirrel from Southeast Asia, another competitor of the Red Squirrel.
Thursday, November 14th: Lake Maggiore – Black Forest
I spend the night near a small forest. At first light, I come to the conclusion that the place may not be so ideal after all. I move and drive to Germignaga, a few minutes north. There is „Parco Il Boschetto“, a public park located directly on the lake. The Tresa River also flows into the lake here, forming a small delta that provides habitat for birds.
At first light, I discover dippers, kingfishers, mountain pipits and several other water-bound bird species on the shore. There are no squirrels to be seen at first, but I have often found that squirrels are late risers.
Then the first dog walkers arrive and one confirms that you can actually expect squirrels here. And yes, they are active even in the cold season. So I walk up and down for a while, which is good after yesterdays long drive. At some point Brown Rats appear on the lawns and finally a Pallas‘ Squirrel also climbs through the crown of a pine tree. It takes quite a long time until I get a good look at the animal and can convince myself that it is actually this species.
As I read, there are several subspecies. I met Pallas‘ Squirrels in Nagaland, India. There they have a beautiful dark red belly. That is not the case with the subspecies here. The belly color is more yellowish-beige. Ultimately, it remains just one individual. This park is probably not a really productive habitat for a Pallas‘ Squirrel either, and certainly not for our native squirrel. When will the idea of designing city parks in a way that is close to nature and suitable for native animals finally take hold?
Around midday I set off on my journey home. In a few hours it’s accomplished. I have made some very beautiful and rare observations. The encounters with bears and wolves in the Abruzzo mountains really feel like winning the lottery. The many invasive species are certainly to be viewed critically, but I am nevertheless happy to have a chance to highlight the situation here.
Mammals seen during my 2024-trip through Italy
| 1 | Eastern Cottontail (neozoon) | Sylvilagus floridanus | Östliches Baumwollschwanzkaninchen |
| 2 | Eastern Gray Squirrel (neozoon) | Sciurus carolinensis | Nordamerikanisches Grauhörnchen |
| 3 | Norwegian / Brown Rat (neozoon) | Rattus norwegicus | Wanderratte |
| 4 | Red Fox | Vulpes vulpes | Rotfuchs |
| 5 | Apodemus mouse | Apodemus sp. | Waldmaus |
| 6 | Nathusius‘ Pipistrelle | Pipistrellus nathusii | Rauhaut-Fledermaus |
| 7 | Wild Boar | Sus scrofa | Wildschwein |
| 8 | West European Hedgehog | Erinaceus europaeus | Braunbrustigel |
| 9 | European Wildcat | Felis silvestris | Wildkatze |
| 10 | Eurasian Red Squirrel | Sciurus vulgaris | Eichhörnchen |
| 11 | Apennine Chamois | Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata | Apennin-Gämse |
| 12 | Apennine Wolf | Canis lupus italicus | Apennin-Wolf |
| 13 | Marsican Brown Bear | Ursus arctos marsicanus | Marsischer Braunbär |
| 14 | Red Deer | Cervus elaphus | Rothirsch |
| 15 | Finlayson’s Squirrel (neozoon) | Callosciurus finlaysonii | Finlayson-Hörnchen |
| 16 | Calabrian Black Squirrel | Sciurus meridionalis | Kalabrisches Eichhörnchen |
| 17 | Pallas’s Squirrel (neozoon) | Callosciurus erythraeus | Pallas-Hörnchen |
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