Genets, cats, bears & hares

This is a report about my road trip to Northern Spain, the first with my wife without our daughter since she was born. It could have become a honeymoon revival journey, but we got ill with fever – first me, then my wife. It turns out that mammals watching is excellent at helping get healthy again.

August 20th, 2024, Montseny:

When we arrive at Montseny, I have already caught a cold. But no time to yammer. The reason to come here to the Eastern Pyrenees is to observe Small-spotted Genets (Genetta genetta). I had reserved a photo hideout for us at photo logistics. We arrange to meet our local guide Francesc at 7:30 pm. (Francesc is the Catalan form of the male first name Francesco, Francis, Franz, etc.) We get into his off-road vehicle and drive a short distance through a forest. We then walk along a path through blackberry bushes. Eventually we reach the hut, which is small, but big enough for two to easily sit next to each other. There is the option of switching on different headlights and even combining flashlights with your own camera. We opt for permanent lighting.

We have barely sit down when the animals are already there – a mother with her young. Francesc had lured them with tinned sardines and cat food. The animals‘ den is apparently not far away. As soon as they hear noises at the hut, they start looking for food in front of it. Neither the noises we make nor the light seem to bother the genets. After Francesc has finished instructing us, he says goodbye. We have about three hours in the hiding place. We agree to meet at 11 pm.

After the first visit the genets leave to come later back again. According to Francesc, it is a rare opportunity to observe mother and young together. There is apparently only a short period of the year when this is possible. In winter up to six genets are said to come to the feeding place at the same time.

After the two have left, we hope to see a stone marten, which also occurs, but it is not here today. In general, stone martens have to watch out for genets. On the other hand, the genet has to be careful when there are domestic cats in the area. Then Francesc has to catch the cat and take it away, because otherwise nothing will show up.

When Francesc finally picks us up, I feel much better. It seems that mammal watching can not only be addictive, it can also be healing … On the way back, a Wild Boar (Sus scrofa) suddenly appears in front of our car. Instead of running left or right, it runs towards us and squeezes past between the car and the embankment. I can already hear the canine teeth scratching at the paint … but everything turns out well. Great evening!

Next destination is the Instituto Pirenaico de Ecología (IPE) in Jaca, where I have an appointment to measure some chamois skulls. We camp at the local campground outside the city and I go for a walk in the evening. I see some domestic cats, a fox and a hare. Although the area is located south of the main ridge of the Pyrenees, it is still within the temperate zone (not the Mediterranean zone). Therefore the hare is a European Hare (Lepus europaeus), not an Iberian Hare (Lepus granatensis).

August 23^rd and August 24^th, Riaño

Now my wife is ill. I have one evening and one morning to look for wildlife by myself. As is generally known among mammal watchers, Riaño is wildcat capital, where you can see the cats even during the day. And luck is on my side. The first animal I get into the viewfinder of my camera is a … dachshund. But then the second one I see from several hundred metres away is indeed a wild cat. Early the next morning, there is another one sitting quite close to the road. And I am happy that I had dutifully read the reports on mammalwatching.com beforehand and therefore know that wild cats sitting close to the road run away immediately if you stop the car.

I am prepared for that, hold the camera and lens on my left forearm while driving, open the window while braking and am ready to let the camera click as soon as the car comes to a stop. (Stopping the car and then lifting the camera is a mistake that these cats will not forgive!) This way I get decent shots with a 500 millimetre lens.

Meeting the Broom Hare

For most mammal watchers, I assume, an animal species is likely to be more interesting the more it differs morphologically or behaviourally from a related species. A cryptic species that can perhaps only be distinguished by DNA analysis is not so exciting if you have already devoted yourself to the sister species. In case of the Broom Hare (Lepus castroviejoi) the main thrill for me was, if I would be able to see and show any differences between this species and a European Hare. (Since I am from Central Europe the hare I relate to ist Lepus europaeus europaeus. The European Hare has many subspecies: 16! according to the Handbook of the Mammals of the World – HMW).

I meet my Broom Hare at Puerto de los Picones at 1316 metres. And here are the more obvious differences between the species: Aulagnier et al. (2008) write: The Broom Hare is “smaller than L. europaeus”. And indeed, when I see my specimen my first thought is: “Oh, is this a rabbit?” (Note for North Americans: In Europe we have just one rabbit species: The European Rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus), which is smaller than any of the Lepus species. It is in a different genus, whereas in North America hares and rabbits can be united in the same genus, Lepus). And although I could not find any measurements I believe that the head of the Broom Hare must be also shorter. Another impression is that “our” hares from Germany in general are not as distinctly three-coloured (lateral view) as the Broom Hare is: darker back, brownish-yellow sides, white belly. Aulagnier et al. (2008) mention another detail for the Broom Hare: “white stripe from eyes to the throat”. My specimen from Riaño shows exactly that, whereas European Hares just show “some white on sides of head” (HMW).

Other animals observed during the two days near Riaño

Meeting the Brown Bear, August 24^th, Somiedo

The Brown Bears of Somiedo are our next aim. And again this species is very easy to observe – because the timing is right. It’s the end of August and the hazelnuts are ready to be harvested.

So we come – to Gúa – and the bear is just there, on the opposite side of the valley, maybe 500 metres away. With a good spotting scope or lens there is lots to see: colour patterns in the bear’s fur; the bear bending hazelnut branches; the bear chewing and thereby exposing it’s canine. And it’s not just us, who enjoy observing. After I have satisfied my initial appetite for bear watching, I look around and count: 50! more bear friends are standing on the meadow near the Gúa church.

It was not like this nine years ago, when I published my book “Sie sind wieder da – Bär, Luchs and Wolf erleben” (They are back again – experiencing bear, lynx and wolf). Of course mammal watching has become more popular – especially through reports that appear on mammalwatching.com. And the locals have to deal with the onrun. There is an information board in Gúa, telling people about “Good practice in wildlife observation”. And under (9) it says: “… Do not share this information on social media to avoid the massive arrival of tourists and onlookers.” Mmh, I assume this appeal falls on deaf ears. As much as I understand the worries, I am convinced that at the moment more people is better.

Ultimately, it cannot be ruled out that too many tourists will cause conflicts in Somiedo. But this phase must be overcome. Tourist-wildlife conflicts can be solved – even if it has to go as far as in Alaska, where at some places bear watching has to be regulated through a lottery for which you have to apply.

On the other hand, only if bear watching becomes more popular, it will be known that it is an economic factor. In Somiedo, there are already bear sculptures, bear posters, and bear souvenirs at every corner. Bear watchers fill hotels, campsites, and restaurants – in other words, bear watchers bring in money. And money is the only argument that can convince conservatives. And if they are convinced, it will be easier to implement protective measures for bears, in Somiedo and elsewhere.

My wife is still ill and we stay two nights at the campground at Pola de Somiedo. And I spend several hours each night there at the creek to look for wildlife. And I have a great time observing Edible Dormouse (Glis glis) feeding on hazelnuts; Apodemus mice and water shrews (Neomys sp.). And of course I am very persistent sitting near the creek, because there is one more guy, I would love to meet: the Pyrenean Desman (Galemys pyrenaicus). To make it short: It does not show up.

On the other hand the water shrew is very present (I can not say how many I saw, only that I had several (10+) sightings). So I come up with some questions, like for instance: When there are water shrews, can I also expect Pyrenean Desmans? Or does one species outcompete the other? Are there other species, showing me that desmans could be around? I find one study, that basically answer these questions.

Finding Pyrenean Desmans with bioindicators

The Pyrenean Desman (Galemys pyrenaicus) is endemic to headwater streams in the mountains of the Pyrenees and other areas in the north of the Iberian Peninsula. It is found in riffle sections of mountainous streams and is restricted to productive, relatively pristine and well-preserved habitats. It is known to be a generalist rheophile predator (loving fast flowing water) with a trophic preference for caddisflies (Trichoptera – dt.: Köcherfliegen), mayflies (Ephemeroptera – dt.: Eintagsfliegen) and stoneflies (Plectoptera – dt.: Steinfliegen).

Galemys pyrenaicus shares habitat and prey resources with other semi-aquatic insectivorous vertebrates including the White-throated Dipper (Cinclus cinclus). In Pyrenean headwater streams, the desman co-exists with the Eurasian Water Shrew (Neomys fodiens). A diet analysis of these three stream vertebrates reveals a clear overlap that gives rise to interspecific trophic competition, especially between G. pyrenaicus and N. fodiens, with the Pyrenean Desman outcompeting both the dipper and the water shrew. On the other hand the water shrew has higher individual densities. One study is cited, where the Eurasian Water Shrew was found in 94 per cent of possible streams, whereas the desman was only found in 45 per cent of these streams.

For the desman watcher this could mean: While you try to find suitable desman habitat, look also for White-throated Dipper during the day and water shrews during the night. Caddisflies, mayflies, and stoneflies are also good indicators for desman habitat. If you don’t find any of these species, abandon the site and find a new creek. If you see water shrews at night, you could have a fifty-fifty chance that the habitat is also suitable for the desman. Walking alongside streams at night enhances your chances to run into animals, but you also risk to scare them off. I prefer to walk alternately and then stay in one place. After having seen two, three water shrews I would proceed.

29^th of August: Marismas del Ason

The main reason for us to stop at this river mouth that drains into the Biskaya is a campground on the way back east. I don’t expect any mammals in the marshes, but I have a few hours at night that I spend in the meadows behind it. Blackberries are ripe in the bushes, which attracts visitors:

30^th of August 2024: Lac d’Estaing, France

Now we enter the Pyrenees from the north through France. The main reason to come here is to see the introduced Victoria Ibex (Capra pyrenaica victoriae). Believe it or not, but the original species, the Pyrenean Ibex (Capra pyrenaica pyrenaica), was extirpated from the world as late as 2000. (Visit my caprinae world, if you wanted to find out more about this extinct subspecies and other wild goats and sheep.)

And of course at Lac d’Estaing there is another chance to find a Pyrenean Desman (but again not found) – and other wildlife:

Because of very unpredictable weather, we do not get as far up in the valley as I had wanted. So we don’t get to see the ibex. Nor do we see Pyrenean Chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica pyrenaica), except for one female with a young. And as far as I can tell, that’s not “normal”. During the hours we’re out and about, I search intensively for this species. The habitat is suitable, but there are no chamois there. Why not? One possibility could be that the ibexes are displacing them. But it’s probably more likely that the chamois leave the national park in autumn to avoid the first snow and then are shot by hunters. This needs to be investigated!

1^st of September:  Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido

Via Col du Pourtalet we drive back from France into Spain again to “Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido”. 

Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido: This park is one of my favourite places in Spain.

I have been here twice before. The condition to get close to Pyrenean Chamois seem to be much better here compared to “Parc national des Pyrénées“ in France, which connects to the north. We go on a hike through Ordesa Valley, where I find this wonderful old chamois buck.

3^rd of September: Andorra

We have an afternoon and a night in this Pyrenean country. Coming from the south and driving through the La Valira Valley we are shocked about the level of urbanisation. 

Andorra is a rich country that makes its money with winter tourism and legal criminals from other countries who hide their money from their respective tax authorities. We follow the main road through the capital Andorra la Vella with its countless petrol stations, boutiques and banks … to finally reach an unexpected wonderful campsite: Camping font de Ferrosins. We walk through the valley where the campsite is located and take a close look at the stream. Andorra is also Desman country.

At night I follow the same route. (For safety reasons I always try to walk a route during the day before I walk it again at night with my thermal scope.) Again I also spend a lot of time sitting and waiting along side the creek. I make many sightings of water shrews and Southwestern Water Voles (Arvicola sapidus). Eventually I leave the creek, proceed through the forest and meadows. I see four European Hares and about 15 single Roe Deer in the course of one kilometre. That’s a lot of deer!

We are healthy again – also because mammal watching distracted us nicely and kept us in a good mood. From Andorra it is an entertaining, romantic two-day-trip home through France.

Sources

Aulagnier et al., 2008: Mammals of Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. Bloomsbury.

López-de Sancha, A., Roig, R., Aymerich, P. et al. Trophic competition in a guild of insectivorous semi-aquatic vertebrates in a Pyrenean headwater stream: diet specialisation in the endangered Galemys pyrenaicus. Mamm Biol 102, 1673–1683 (2022). https://doi.org/10.1007/s42991-022-00265-z

Wilson, Don E. and Mittermeier, Russell A.: Handbook of the Mammals of the World – Volumes 1-9, Lynx Nature Books